Portugal, Punctures and Piri Piri Chicken
Jaime and I packed our bags and set off on our 2431 km round trip to Portugal on Tuesday the 2nd of August. I was very proud of the fact that I managed to stay awake the whole 7 hours of journey to the Algarve since I usually tend to snooze when locked in a moving vehicle for more than an hour.
Before crossing the border to Portugal we made a fleeting stop in Isla Cristina which is on the Costa de la Luz. This was my first opportunity to don the new bikini in public, the beach was lovely and sandy but I refrained from bathing in the sea after spotting about the 15th dead jellyfish on the shore! They were huge and after seeing them there was no way I was dipping even a toe in the sea. We only stayed for about an hour, had a drink and bought some beach chairs and set off again for the Algarve.
Within about 15 minutes we had crossed the border and were driving along the Portuguese coast. The change in language came as a bit of a shock as it didn't really feel like we'd left one country to move into another. We decided that Albufeira should be our base and we set about looking for a campsite there. We found this one pretty quickly, and it was fantastic. It had a restaurant, a night club, swimming pools and four bars. We arrived quite late so it was just a case of putting up the tent, getting some grub and going to bed. (The food part was rather interesting as you paid for you dinner according to how much it weighed!)
We woke up bright and early the next morning (still not having realised that Portugal is an hour behind Spain) and the following four mornings and we did some exploring of the surrounding area. First call was Albufeira, where I bought this fetching hat and we had a wander and a bite to eat. We soon realised that we would have no trouble conversing with the Portuguese as they were nearly all good English speakers and after trying to order 'um cafe com gelo' and failing we decided that English was the way to go. I just threw in the odd 'obrigado/a' so at least I looked as if I was trying with the lingo.
We spent our time in the Algarve visiting the beach every afternoon and setting off in the car every morning to see the neighbouring towns. We went to Quarteira (beach), Lagos, (lunch) Silves (castle) and a nice iced coffee in an English café called, surprise surprise, Café Inglês! (It has a fab terrace with great views of the town and it is right below the fortress.) We also went to Sagres and the fortess at Cape St Vincent which is apparently the most south western point of the European continent. We had a lovely stroll aorund the cliffs, I spent most of the time holding on to my hat so it didn't fly away on the wind and then I nearly shat myself when I slipped on a particularly jagged rock edge whilst trying to see what the fishermen were doing below.
In a small village about 20 minutes from Albufeira we saw a sand sculpture festival that represented the lost worlds. People from all over the world had come together to build a very impressive representation of ancient civilisations. Well worth the 7 euros entry! After we went to a little cove on the coast where I nearly drowned and my bikini filled with sand as the big waves pulled me under. Then as the waves went back out again I very nearly lost my pants altogether! Very scary.
On an evening we went into Albufeira and had a few cocktails (obviously geared at the huge number of British tourists, and what is with these gigantic straws??), or we went out for dinner (with normal straws) or if we were too tired after one of our excursions we sat in the bar of the camping drinking and listening to the live music they put on. During our stay in the Algarve I sampled the typical Piri Piri chicken which was rather spicy but very tasty and some Port of course.
We decided to move further north after a few days in the Algarve and so we headed for the coast of Lisbon. We managed to find a decent enough camping about five minutes from Guincho beach and we pitched our tent there. No swimming pool, very basic, restaurant service was diabolical but amusing. The campsite was infested with tiny ants and I spent the three nights there itching in my sleeping bag. Nor was I impressed when a huge spider fell on me while I was blowing up the air bed for the twentieth time (puncture number 1). The only thing it had going for it was it's nearness to the beach but we only ever got chance to go there on an evening at about 6 and it was windy and quite cold. I'm not surprised that the beach is famous for windsurfing and kitesurfing. (not sure if Jaime is attempting kite surfing or just shaking off my mat).
We used this campsite as a base for visiting Lisbon, Estoril and Cascais. Lisbon was our first stop. The problem with Lisbon is that it is built in and amongst hills so with the exception of the areas around the River Tagus and the centre the streets are very steep and cobbled, making them difficult to deal with in hot weather. The jewels of the city are hidden in and amongst the old quarters of the town (Alfama and Baixa) where you find beautiful chapels and the cathedral.
We decided that the best and most fun way to tackle this was to pay 17 € and go on a sightseeing tram. The price seemed a bit steep to me but it was fantastic and it allowed you to see all the main sights. (miradors, churches, the narrowest house I have ever seen) and when we were travelling through the Alfama the streets were so narrow that we could touch the walls of the buildings from the tram. At times it felt more like a rollercoaster! For people who don't want to fork out the money you can get the same effect by catching the number 28 ordinary tram, and to move around the steep streets there are lifts like the Santa Justa and funiculars.
Jaime was disappointed with Lisbon, I think he had expected something bigger and better. I have to admit that it is a little rundown and shabby in places but in a way I think that is what adds to its charm.
After that a walk along the river led us to Belem and it's tower, the discovery monument and the Jeronimos' monastery.
Having had enough for one day we retired to the beach and returned the following day to visit the Expo 98 area of the capital. We walked around the Oceanarium and had a lovely meal in the restaurant there, Agua e Sal. The pumpkin and mushroom risotto was orgasmic! After lunch we caught the cable car for a view of the river and the city. Not a good idea after risotto!
Of course our final day in Lisbon would not have been complete without struggling along the one way, cobbled streets, getting a flat tyre (puncture number 2) having to change the tyre for a temporary one, then going to the garage to buy two new tyres and then having them fitted to leave the garage and realise that they had only fitted one new tyre and charged for two and then fight our way through Lisbon traffic on a one way system without a map amongst crazy Portuguese drivers who shouldn't be allowed on the road to get back to the garage and have another tyre fitted! Aggghh!
Once the car was finally fixed we drove through Estoril and Cascais to go to the beach and look at all the pretty houses and the famous casino! Apparently this is where Portuguese high society lives so that would explain why some of the houses looked like mini castles.
After all that we zonked out in the tent for one last time before packing it all up, ants and all, and heading back to Madrid just before the first rain drops began to fall. Phew!
Before crossing the border to Portugal we made a fleeting stop in Isla Cristina which is on the Costa de la Luz. This was my first opportunity to don the new bikini in public, the beach was lovely and sandy but I refrained from bathing in the sea after spotting about the 15th dead jellyfish on the shore! They were huge and after seeing them there was no way I was dipping even a toe in the sea. We only stayed for about an hour, had a drink and bought some beach chairs and set off again for the Algarve.
Within about 15 minutes we had crossed the border and were driving along the Portuguese coast. The change in language came as a bit of a shock as it didn't really feel like we'd left one country to move into another. We decided that Albufeira should be our base and we set about looking for a campsite there. We found this one pretty quickly, and it was fantastic. It had a restaurant, a night club, swimming pools and four bars. We arrived quite late so it was just a case of putting up the tent, getting some grub and going to bed. (The food part was rather interesting as you paid for you dinner according to how much it weighed!)
We woke up bright and early the next morning (still not having realised that Portugal is an hour behind Spain) and the following four mornings and we did some exploring of the surrounding area. First call was Albufeira, where I bought this fetching hat and we had a wander and a bite to eat. We soon realised that we would have no trouble conversing with the Portuguese as they were nearly all good English speakers and after trying to order 'um cafe com gelo' and failing we decided that English was the way to go. I just threw in the odd 'obrigado/a' so at least I looked as if I was trying with the lingo.
We spent our time in the Algarve visiting the beach every afternoon and setting off in the car every morning to see the neighbouring towns. We went to Quarteira (beach), Lagos, (lunch) Silves (castle) and a nice iced coffee in an English café called, surprise surprise, Café Inglês! (It has a fab terrace with great views of the town and it is right below the fortress.) We also went to Sagres and the fortess at Cape St Vincent which is apparently the most south western point of the European continent. We had a lovely stroll aorund the cliffs, I spent most of the time holding on to my hat so it didn't fly away on the wind and then I nearly shat myself when I slipped on a particularly jagged rock edge whilst trying to see what the fishermen were doing below.
In a small village about 20 minutes from Albufeira we saw a sand sculpture festival that represented the lost worlds. People from all over the world had come together to build a very impressive representation of ancient civilisations. Well worth the 7 euros entry! After we went to a little cove on the coast where I nearly drowned and my bikini filled with sand as the big waves pulled me under. Then as the waves went back out again I very nearly lost my pants altogether! Very scary.
On an evening we went into Albufeira and had a few cocktails (obviously geared at the huge number of British tourists, and what is with these gigantic straws??), or we went out for dinner (with normal straws) or if we were too tired after one of our excursions we sat in the bar of the camping drinking and listening to the live music they put on. During our stay in the Algarve I sampled the typical Piri Piri chicken which was rather spicy but very tasty and some Port of course.
We decided to move further north after a few days in the Algarve and so we headed for the coast of Lisbon. We managed to find a decent enough camping about five minutes from Guincho beach and we pitched our tent there. No swimming pool, very basic, restaurant service was diabolical but amusing. The campsite was infested with tiny ants and I spent the three nights there itching in my sleeping bag. Nor was I impressed when a huge spider fell on me while I was blowing up the air bed for the twentieth time (puncture number 1). The only thing it had going for it was it's nearness to the beach but we only ever got chance to go there on an evening at about 6 and it was windy and quite cold. I'm not surprised that the beach is famous for windsurfing and kitesurfing. (not sure if Jaime is attempting kite surfing or just shaking off my mat).
We used this campsite as a base for visiting Lisbon, Estoril and Cascais. Lisbon was our first stop. The problem with Lisbon is that it is built in and amongst hills so with the exception of the areas around the River Tagus and the centre the streets are very steep and cobbled, making them difficult to deal with in hot weather. The jewels of the city are hidden in and amongst the old quarters of the town (Alfama and Baixa) where you find beautiful chapels and the cathedral.
We decided that the best and most fun way to tackle this was to pay 17 € and go on a sightseeing tram. The price seemed a bit steep to me but it was fantastic and it allowed you to see all the main sights. (miradors, churches, the narrowest house I have ever seen) and when we were travelling through the Alfama the streets were so narrow that we could touch the walls of the buildings from the tram. At times it felt more like a rollercoaster! For people who don't want to fork out the money you can get the same effect by catching the number 28 ordinary tram, and to move around the steep streets there are lifts like the Santa Justa and funiculars.
Jaime was disappointed with Lisbon, I think he had expected something bigger and better. I have to admit that it is a little rundown and shabby in places but in a way I think that is what adds to its charm.
After that a walk along the river led us to Belem and it's tower, the discovery monument and the Jeronimos' monastery.
Having had enough for one day we retired to the beach and returned the following day to visit the Expo 98 area of the capital. We walked around the Oceanarium and had a lovely meal in the restaurant there, Agua e Sal. The pumpkin and mushroom risotto was orgasmic! After lunch we caught the cable car for a view of the river and the city. Not a good idea after risotto!
Of course our final day in Lisbon would not have been complete without struggling along the one way, cobbled streets, getting a flat tyre (puncture number 2) having to change the tyre for a temporary one, then going to the garage to buy two new tyres and then having them fitted to leave the garage and realise that they had only fitted one new tyre and charged for two and then fight our way through Lisbon traffic on a one way system without a map amongst crazy Portuguese drivers who shouldn't be allowed on the road to get back to the garage and have another tyre fitted! Aggghh!
Once the car was finally fixed we drove through Estoril and Cascais to go to the beach and look at all the pretty houses and the famous casino! Apparently this is where Portuguese high society lives so that would explain why some of the houses looked like mini castles.
After all that we zonked out in the tent for one last time before packing it all up, ants and all, and heading back to Madrid just before the first rain drops began to fall. Phew!
posted by Faye in Spain @ 11:31 PM
1 Comments:
Yikes! I'm exhausted just reading about it! Sounds like you had a good time, though, and that's what counts.
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